FAQ - House Rabbit Society of San Diego

This FAQ comes from the many questions we receive from callers to our hotline or emails to our website.

	Q.	Why is my rabbit drooling? She seems to have a hard time chewing very crunchy, or tough things like hay, but otherwise is healthy and happy.
	A.	It sounds as if your rabbit is having problems with her teeth or another area of her mouth, which is causing her pain when she chews. It could be problems with molar spurs, an abscess, or another situation that is occurring in her jaw or mouth. This condition requires an immediate visit to a rabbit-experienced vet to determine the cause.
	Q.	Do I have to fast my rabbit before surgery?
	A.	No, it is not necessary to have your rabbit fast (withhold food) prior to surgery or anesthetic procedures. Because rabbits cannot vomit, the risk for aspiration of food into the lungs is not as great as for cats, dogs, or humans. If your rabbit is going in for oral or dental procedures, however, it is a good idea to refrain from feeding him for up to two hours prior to the procedure to prevent any food particles from blocking the view of the mouth or oral cavity.
	Q.	I hadn't had my rabbit very long when I was shocked to see him fall over on his side, down like a rock. He seems okay now. Also, he sometimes lies down with his chin stuck out on the floor. Should I worry?
	A.	It is very common for bunnies to flop over on their sides. We don't know why they do this instead of lying down quietly, but it is nothing to worry about. Bunnies like to lie down and rest in all sorts of positions. Some prefer the hunched up "meatloaf" position; others prefer to stretch out on one side. A sign of extreme confidence in their surroundings is when your rabbit lies on his/her stomach with legs stretched back straight. Unlike a sitting position where the rabbit's legs are underneath and he can catapult away from danger. With legs stretched out he cannot escape quickly. He has to be confident to assume this position. Some bunnies sleep sitting up; some sleep lying down; some sleep so soundly that it looks like they're dead; others don't seem to sleep at all. These are all charming and normal; just personality variations among rabbits.
	Q.	I have a little bunny, 2 years old, who has digestive problems at least once or twice a week. Her poop is very soft, smelly and messy. I know it has to do with her diet, but I can't figure out what the problem is. I try to give her smaller portions, but it isn't working. I feed her the gourmet diet for rabbits. She probably eats a cup a day or less. How do I fix this problem?
	A.	Often a rabbits "poopy bottom" is caused by a diet that is too rich. We find that cutting back on the pellets and increasing their intake of mixed hay helps tremendously. Although rabbits love the gourmet blend pelleted food, (with seeds, nuts, etc), it is not a healthy choice for your rabbit. The most important part of a rabbit's diet should be UNLIMITED hay. This includes Timothy, oat, orchard grass, Bermuda grass and alfalfa hay. Rabbits should also have at least 3 different types of fresh vegetables each day, such as parsley, romaine lettuce, cilantro, kale, carrots, etc. See diet links for recommended quantities. If you live in San Diego, you can purchase large boxes of freshly-mixed hay at various locations throughout the county (see "hay sources" in this website). If you're not in the San Diego area, you can inquire at a feed store and see if they will sell you a flake or two from a bale. Or, you can purchase hay through mail order from Oxbow Hay (www. oxbowhay.com), or American Pet Diner (www.americanpetdiner.com). On a hay and veggie diet, many rabbits need little or no pellets in their diet. If you do want to continue feeding her pellets, make sure it is a brand high in fiber or for adult rabbits, try the Timothy pellets available from Oxbow or American Pet Diner. If your bunny has been eating pellets, don't make the change to a hay/veggie diet too abruptly. Start by giving her unlimited hay now, but introduce the veggies slowly, and begin to wean her off the pellets or cut back considerably once you are sure she is eating a lot of hay Be sure to read the many articles available about rabbit diet on this website as well as the National HRS site (www.rabbit.org).
	Q.	We lost our little lop-eared bunny on New Year's Day. She was out in our backyard playing with our other bunny and she just disappeared. This is the second companion to Hoppy, our 1 1/2 year-old bunny, that we have lost in 6 months. The other companion got through the fence into the neighbor's yard, and their dogs got her (we found her body), but we haven't found any evidence of Piccola anywhere. My question is, do rabbits really grieve the loss of a companion that they've known only a few months? We only had Piccola 3 1/2 months; she was 5 months old. I feel sorry for Hoppy, who is now lonesome again, but of course he has the love of a loving family and two kids who adore him. Or should we attempt to get another companion, perhaps a mature female that he can bond with again? I hate to go through the heartbreak of losing a pet, but I feel sorry for Hoppy, who is left without a companion, although we had him 1 1/2 years before we got him his first companion. What is the best thing to do?
	A.	Your situation demonstrates why the House Rabbit Society so strongly urges people to keep their rabbits indoors, and to supervise any outdoor play in a secured pen. The pleasures of being outdoors include fresh air, sunshine and freedom to run, chew and dig. For a prey animal such as a rabbit, your yard can also be a place of danger from predators; theft; poisonous plants; toxic pesticides or fertilizers; exposure to sun, heat, wind or wet; bacteria in dirt; fleas; and diseases spread by flies and mosquitoes. Yes, rabbits can definitely mourn the loss of their companions. But instead of getting another rabbit for Hoppy who would likely suffer the same fate as the other two rabbits, please consider bringing Hoppy in the house where he can be the recipient of all of the love your family has to offer, and where he will be safe.
	Q.	I have a small house rabbit who has had runny eyes now for almost 4 weeks. The morning that I noticed it, I immediately brought her to the vet. He prescribed an antibiotic twice a day for a week and 1% chloramphenical ointment in her eyes three times a day for 10 days. After the 10 days, her eyes were still runny. The vet suggested another 7-day treatment on the ointment. After that, her eyes were still runny. He has changed her prescription to gentocin eye ointment three times a day for 10 days. It has been 5 days now and her eyes are still runny. She seems to be in good health otherwise. Should I be concerned? The fluid is clear and just runs out the corners of her eyes and mats the fur around her eyes. She doesn't appear to have "snuffles."
	A.	Has the veterinarian flushed out her tear ducts? If they're blocked, antibiotic drops and ointment may have little effect. Depending how blocked the ducts are, they may need to be flushed a few times, several days apart. It isn't uncommon for rabbits' tear ducts to become blocked; unlike many other animals, their ducts are shaped like drainpipes with a narrow "U" shaped turn, which is prone to getting obstructed. Flushing the tear ducts is relatively painless for the rabbit. The veterinarian should numb the eye with a topical remedy, and then place the needle end of a syringe into the duct opening and flush the duct. Usually saline is used or an antibiotic. If all goes well, the fluid comes out the nose. Another concern may be tooth (root) problems. This should also be addressed by your veterinarian if the ducts clear up and the problem continues.
	Q.	Is my rabbit too old to spay?
	A.	Female rabbits have a high incidence of uterine cancer when they are not spayed. An ovariohysterectomy performed at around six months of age can prevent your rabbit from getting uterine cancer. If you have an older unspayed female rabbit, surgery is still recommended to decrease the risk of uterine cancer. A complete workup to include blood testing and x-rays should be performed before a decision to do surgery is made. This is to make sure your rabbit is in good health before the surgery is performed. Isoflurane anesthesia as well as IV fluids can be used to increase the safety of the surgical procedure in an older rabbit.
	Q.	We will soon be moving and are wondering the best way to move our bonded pair. We are concerned that the car ride of eight hours may be too stressful even with a haybox and water bottle included. We have no idea how bunnies do with flying, or if we can take them in the cabin with us.
	A.	First of all, thank you for taking your rabbits with you. You will be glad you made the extra effort and so will they. Many rabbits make the 'moving' trip and are fine afterward. Just make sure they are kept in a safe enclosure (a hard plastic pet carrier), lined with newspaper and maybe some hay. Do not put their food or water bowls in there with them, in the event you have to "hit the brakes" or have a fender bender, they won't get injured by these items. Take a break about every 2 hours to give them some time to stretch and drink some water. You may want to put harnesses on them so you can attach a leash and safely take them out of the car to a grassy area (safe from dogs or other predators) in a rest stop area. Rabbits safely fly on airlines all the time. Your best bet is to call the airlines well ahead of time to book them on the flight (in a carrier, under the seat). The key here, is that most airlines will allow only one pet carrier in the cabin at a time. So getting your name down first is important. Also, call around to different airlines to learn who is easier to work with before making your reservations. In each case, once you get to your new destination, have a comfortable, quiet, cage setup for them with plenty of fresh water, food, and hay. Cover them over a bit for quiet, and let them rest and slowly become comfortable with their new surroundings.
	Q.	My rabbit has been eating pellets since I've had her (2 years), is overweight and is experiencing chronic diarrhea. The vet has placed her on baytril, metronidozole and metoclopromide in addition to timothy hay and yogurt. He has not suggested removing her from the pellet diet. Do you have any comments or suggestions that may help this problem?
	A.	Dr. Susan Brown, one of the top rabbit veterinarians in the country, has written an article that you may find very helpful. She addresses your rabbit's problem specifically, and has recommendations on how to change her diet to help reduce weight and eliminate the chronic diarrhea. Follow this link to read the article.

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Write: P.O. Box 261553, San Diego, CA 92196-1553 or call: 619-718-7777